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I am a college junior from Seattle attending a semester at Boğaziçi University in Istanbul.

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Boat shoes in back alleys

On my way back from the Church of the Holy Wisdom, (or less grandly, the Hagia Sophia) I was exiting an underpass when a shoe-shine man dropped his brush in the midst of going home. He didn’t seem to notice so, like the generally kind oaf that I am, I picked it up and gave it back to him. This pleased him immensely and he insisted that he give my shoes a brush. I insisted that I had to go. He said (as best I could make out) that this would just be a brushing and free, because I’d helped him. I caved. Low and behold, after he’d finished brushing my leather boatshoes out came the polish. He had my feet well in hand, so I just sighed and rolled with it. He asked where I was from and I told him A.B.D. (U.S.A. in Turkish). He was from Ankara. He’d come to Istanbul to get eye surgery but had gotten lost during the post-surgery blindness… or something, and was now shining shoes to pay his way back to Ankara. He was a well-built man in his late fifties and it was a bit intimidating when he finished and demanded twenty lira. We were alone, just the two of us and several of his shoe-shine buddies at the mouth of the darkening tunnel. I said no, free. He protested (rather loudly and a little too close for comfort) that he had lavished a lot of expensive shoeshine on my ungrateful feet (or something to that effect) and that he had a sick baby. “Doesn't everyone,” I would have said had it been within my power. Instead, I told him that that it was too expensive and that I was just a student, although in retrospect I realize I was actually telling him, “Much too cheap, my student.” He was kind enough to keep a straight face abruptly dropped his angry façade when I gave him ten lira. He complimented me on my Turkish, shook my hand, and went in peace. I’m willing to chalk this up to a learning experience. Although, to be fair, my shoes are considerably shinier.

1 comment:

Sharon said...

Love the blog, Dan! I intend to check in often as I try to escape my hum-drum life - and take your virtual tour of Instanbul - its people, language and history.

We prayed for you in our Friday morning ladies group. God is so good!

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